Organic Gardening Tips TBT

Organic Gardening Tips

Excerpt from the January 2011 IOGA Newsletter By Janet Glover

Tomato Blight

2009 was a terrible year for tomato blight, and I used both Soap Shield and Neem oil. As you may know, Soap Shield is made from a natural copper fertilizer and a fatty acid that give the plant protection from fungal disease...and it decomposes to a soluble copper and fatty acid, both of which Gardens Alive says are used by microbes and by plants. And they do use a very low amount of copper in their formula. I used both Soap Shield and Neem oil in 2009 as a preventive and after I saw blight starting. I have to say that the blight was still devastating, though we were able to help the tomatoes struggle through the summer. We did end up with quite a few tomatoes from the eight plants, but the harvest was spread out...with just a few tomatoes at a time. It took quite a while to can enough tomatoes to last through the winter! It's hard to say how much the Soap Shield and Neem oil helped because I don't know what would have happened if I had not used them at all. But they definitely did not stop the blight in 2009. At most, they only helped the tomatoes to just barely make it through the summer.

This year, I read about Plant Guardian, which is a bio fungicide...Bacillus Subtillis...that attacks harmful bacterial and fungal garden diseases. So I began using Plant Guardian, along with Soap Shield and Neem oil, as soon as we planted tomatoes because I was concerned about a repeat of the awful blight we had in 2009. I do believe that the Plant Guardian is what has made the difference since it's the one thing that's different than what I did in 2009. As I said...the Soap Shield and Neem oil together didn't stop the blight in 2009, but this year, our tomatoes have been very green and healthy, with no blight. Recently, three of the plum tomatoes were hit with something that appears to be fungal, but it hasn't really spread to the other plum tomato plants in that bed. We did take out two of the plum tomato plants because they were nearly dead, but the other plants are growing and producing very well.

So...I'm not sure exactly what did hit those three plants. It seems to have been a matter of them wilting overnight in the heat and then not recovering...and perhaps that weakened them and made them more susceptible to disease. I did use Plant Guardian on them right away, and one has recovered fairly well...and the other two were taken out yesterday. The rest of the plants have a few yellowed lower leaves on them, but nothing serious. We will remove the leaves and continue with Plant Guardian and Soap Shield and Neem oil. I would like to have a test plant somewhere separate from the other tomatoes so that I could use only the Plant Guardian on it...just to see if it would do as well or even better than the plants sprayed with Soap Shield and Neem oil. And I plan to do that next year. In any case, I think I can say that the Plant Guardian has made a BIG difference this year. Our second bed of tomatoes has done very well and does not show any signs of blight.

We planted five tomato varieties, Sweet Olive, Early Girl, Better Bush, Better Boy, and Mountain Spring, all

purchased from Whole Foods. Oh...and we also have one bed of only Roma plum tomatoes. We do love heirloom tomatoes, but they seemed to have less resistance to blight, and so we began trying varieties that are VFN resistant, and that seems to have helped. Next year, I want to try heirlooms again, to see if Plant Guardian will make a difference with them. I would like to use no sprays at all...not even the safer organic ones...but with tomatoes, it seems that there is no way to get around it. Blight quickly takes over if we leave them untreated. But I think Plant Guardian is safer...so hopefully my experiment next year will show me if I could raise tomatoes using only Plant Guardian. I'll let you know how that comes out! With gardening, I think our motto is always "Next year..."

Potatoe Blight

Potatoes go hand-in-hand with tomatoes as far as disease, since both are susceptible to blight and other fungal diseases. We've had potato problems this year and in 2009, and I read quite a bit about that online. I buy only certified organic seed potatoes from Seeds of Change, and this year we planted German Butterball and Red Sangre. Both started out beautiful, lush, and green, but then one bed began turning yellow. We're very careful to rotate beds on a 3-5 year schedule with tomatoes and potatoes, so I knew it was not because potatoes had been planted there before. I read as much as I could find, and I believe it may have been verticillium wilt   which I learned can still be present in

seed potatoes, even if they are certified virus-free. Though it didn't make sense that the seed potatoes had been infected, because only one bed started turning yellow. And no potatoes or tomatoes (or peppers or eggplant) had been planted in that bed before.  so it was

really a mystery as to why the yellowing began. And I may be mistaken about verticillium though that is the

only answer I could come up with. Perhaps it was actually blight, and I just didn't realize it. I began using Soap Shield, Plant Guardian, and Neem oil on that bed and on the other two beds of potatoes. I do believe that it was the Plant Guardian that made the difference.

Soap Shield and Neem oil together did not really stop blight on our potatoes in 2009 but when I used Plant Guardian, I did see the potato plants make a partial recovery.  They would begin growing again, and the new growth was green. They would really "perk up" after an application of Plant Guardian...much more than with the Soap Shield and Neem oil. And I do think Plant Guardian gave the other beds of potatoes some protection so that they were able to stay healthy several weeks longer...though eventually, all three beds did succumb to whatever this is...blight or verticillium.

Truly, it looks like blight now...though I cannot be 100% sure of that. I do think from all that I have seen that Plant Guardian has given the most protection and has helped most when the potatoes were diseased.

Again, I think I will plant a test potato bed somewhere next year using only Plant Guardian...to see how it does. I really do feel better about using Plant Guardian than using Soap Shield, even though Soap Shield is a safe product. So I am going to experiment and see what I find out!

Oh...for those who may not know...Plant Guardian is safe to use right up to the day of harvest, and it can be used at any time of day--in heat or high temps--and will not burn or damage plants in any way.

Squash Bug

Yes, I use Pyola (from Gardens Alive--phyrethrin from pyrethrin daisies mixed with canola oil) for squash bugs and for Japanese beetles and cucumber beetles. It does kill squash bugs, and the label says it kills the eggs, though I have found that I need to keep a close eye on the squash and cucumbers once I find squash bugs.

While the Pyola does kill the live squash bugs, I have also found more of them later...so I think the eggs did hatch out. We do go through the bed and remove all leaves that have eggs on them...and those leaves are destroyed. But I have found that squash bugs are so persistent that I have to keep a very close watch on them. I try to use the Pyola very carefully...even though it's a safe botanical remedy...because it will kill beneficial insects, too. So I spray judiciously...only on the exact area where I know there are squash bugs.

We didn't have too many Japanese beetles this year, though they did attack the basil, as they always do. With that, I just use tulle from the fabric store to cover the basil so that the beetles can't get to it. It works perfectly, and no Pyola is needed. We want to make floating row covers for more of our crops...such as squash and cucumbers...to hopefully keep squash bugs and cucumber beetles out. Even though Pyola is safe...I still would rather not use it unless absolutely necessary. If we can cover the plants to keep bugs away, then we'll definitely do it. That is something we'll work on a lot more next year.

Powdery Mildew

We've had powdery mildew on cucumbers the in 2008 and 2009, though it's been fairly late in the season when it started. Really, we had gotten most of the harvest before powdery mildew set it...and we continued to get lots of cucumbers even after the mildew made the plants look fairly ugly.  I did use Soap Shield and Neem oil in 2009 for powdery mildew and I think it did hold it off somewhat...though it did not stop it. This year I've used Plant Guardian, and I haven't seen any powdery mildew on the cucumbers. Though I have to say that the cucumbers look awful for another reason...that small groundhog that dug under the fence the one night that the electric fence shorted out!! The groundhog ate at least half the leaves off the cucumber vines, and that really damaged the plants. They have looked awful since then...I think some sort of disease set in because of all those open wounds where the groundhog ate the leaves.  The plants have produced, but not very well, so I planted a second bed of cucumbers...and it looks just fine. No powdery mildew or other problems, and we should get cucumbers from it later this month. I'm using Plant Guardian as a preventive, and so far it's looking good. I didn't do too much preventive spraying on cucumbers in 2009. Mostly, I sprayed after powdery mildew had set in. And this year I didn't have a chance to worry about it since the groundhog created havoc with the cucumbers!

Our basic thought on sprays is to use them only when really needed...and then very carefully and judiciously. And we are trying to go without them whenever possible. We don't mind living with a small amount of insect damage, as long as it doesn't destroy the plants. The BIGGEST problem by far is a fungal disease...and that is mostly the problems with tomatoes and potatoes...blight, verticillium, etc. For that, it seems that spraying is a necessity...but we use only safe sprays from Gardens Alive...and I really prefer the Plant Guardian...and I think it has given the most help and most protection.

Tomato Hornworms & Cabbage Loopers

Oh...we do use Bt as well...Bacillus thuringienses...to keep tomato hornworms and cabbage loopers out. But we use that very carefully, as well, because it will kill butterfly caterpillars too. And I have read that there is a concern that butterfly numbers are declining in areas where there is overuse of Bt. So I am very careful to use it sparingly...and only directly on the plants where caterpillars are a problem. Really, it seems that I need to use it only once or twice, and that takes care of it.

We don't have any problem with tomato hornworms, and we did have them in the years before I used Bt. But a little of it does seem to do the trick insects, not leaves.

7 Easy Steps to Start your own Microgreens

Nutrient-dense produce you can grow during the winter

It’s wintertime which means our selection of fresh healthy foods here in the mid-west is limited. Most of us resort to what we find at the grocery store or what we might have left in the pantry if we did some canning. It’s hard to get good nutrition during this time of year but there is a solution. 

The answer is microgreens! These two-leaved creations have tons of vitamins and other compounds that make them a good healthy choice. Broccoli sprouts, for example, have a cancer-fighting agent called sulforaphane scientifically proven to reduce cancer cells. For a great YouTube video on the subject, I suggest checking out the link at the bottom of this blog post.

Here are some simple steps to starting your own microgreen:

Step 1: Soak Your Seeds

In an 8x4 inch aluminum bread pan (no drainage holes), I evenly spread out the desired seed needed to get a good crop of microgreens then submerge the seeds in water overnight. Not all seeds require this step, but I do it for peas and sunflowers shown here:

Step 2: Drain off water and Prep Container

In this photo, I have a small strainer I use to drain the water from the soaked seed. I then put a thin layer of worm castings and about a tablespoon of liquid organic kelp to the bottom of the tray. This helps ensure I get the maximum benefit for these ‘live’ vitamins. This is way better than swallowing those pills from the pharmacy.

Step 3: Add a Layer of Potting Soil

Using a general potting mix like Promix. Create a layer of soil over the fertilizer and do not mix. The roots will feast on the lower layer of feed. When adding soil, make sure to moisten the medium beforehand. I like to moisten the soil in a gallon ziplock bag with roughly 4 cups of water overnight. Evenly spread the soil and break up clumps as you go.

Step 4: Sow the Seeds

Here’s the fun part! Spread the seed out evenly making sure that the seeds do not pile onto each other. If the seed overlaps they will compete too much and lift neighboring seeds away from the soil.

Step 5: Cover the Seed

When I say cover the seed I don’t mean with soil. Simply use a newspaper or paper towel like I have done here. Moisten with water and cover the seed to help with germination.

Step 6: Incubate the containers

This can be done anywhere. Some people will store the containers in warm cupboards for about 3 to 4 days. What is important is that the containers are in a dark warm place. This helps the germination process.

Step 7: Let Them Grow

Once the seeds have germinated move the containers under grow lights or an east/west-facing window. Water periodically until the microgreens reach about 2-3 inches. This step is critical when ensuring that the microgreens are photosynthesizing which means more nutrients!

And just like that, you have fresh microgreens ready to be put in a salad, on a sandwich or the way I like it… In a smoothie!

Lastly, Make sure to compost the soil cakes! This makes for great soil amendment for your flower beds and vegetable gardens. It is possible to reuse the composted soil cakes for your microgreen medium too!

All these techniques came from the book Year-Round Indoor Salad Gardening by Peter Burke. I highly suggest checking this book out if you want to learn more about the specifics to his technique at raising microgreens. Happy Gardening!

Year-Round Indoor Salad Gardening - By: Peter Burke

Sulforaphane and Its Effects on Cancer - YouTube - By: Rhonda Pratric PH.D
Blog Post By: Nicholas Hardebeck

7 Facts about GMOs and their Effects TBT

Though this article was written back in 2012 sadly much of this information is still relevant. There have been some updates to some of the statistic and information in this article as of 2020.

Genetically modified organisms (GMOs) have been in our food supply since 1996, yet many people are unaware of what GMOs are or why they’re dangerous to all of us and to the environment. Here are some of the facts about GMOs, along with a list of resources where you can learn more.

1. From One Organism to Another

GMOs are created by inserting genes from one species into the DNA of another completely different species. This is not traditional plant breeding, which involves cross-pollination, and it’s not natural breeding that takes place in nature. This is actual manipulation of the DNA, such as inserting fish DNA into strawberry DNA, and it’s something that would never take place in nature!

2. An Increase in Illnesses

Since GMO foods were introduced into our food supply, the incidence of chronic illnesses has increased, and food allergies have skyrocketed, according to the Institute for Responsible Technology. However, powerful biotech influence in Washington has prevented any real, long-term research into the health effects of GMOs. So far, the FDA and USDA have allowed the corporations to use their own superficial, faulty research and have ignored pleas from the scientific community for independent, third-party research on GMOs.

3. Countries Banning this Form of Production

Many countries worldwide have severe restrictions or outright bans on GMO crops and foods, but in the U.S., there is little oversight over the introduction of GMO crops, and there is no mandatory labeling of GMO foods. Polls consistently show that 87% to 93% of U.S. citizens want GMO labeling, but the government has ignored these demands. “Right to Know” campaigns are taking place all over the country, and the push for GMO labeling is gaining momentum. They have tried to implement scan codes for consumers to link to their smartphones. This idea was shot down because label advocates believe consumers will not take the time to scan for these ingredients. 88% of Consumers want this information printed on the labels so that their information for simple more convenient. Also, its a concern that scanning QR codes will only allow producers to gather more information about the consumer by having the information linked to their smartphones.

4. Not Good for Wildlife

GMO crops and the herbicides used with them are harmful to soil organisms, insects, birds, animals, and humans. Increasing herbicide use is polluting water sources. Also, the GMO plants themselves present a threat to genetic diversity through their ability to cross-pollinate with non-GMO plants. This is a direct threat to maintaining the purity of organic certified seeds.

5. Increase in Yield?

Biotech corporations try to make the claim that GMOs will increase crop yields and will feed a hungry world, but these claims have been disproved. The 2009 report by the Union of Concerned Scientists made it clear that GMO crops did not increase yields, nor did they offer any advantages.  In fact, yields decreased in some cases. As of 2018 there is still little evidence showing that these crops truly increase yields though they do show resistance to insect damage and diseases.

6. Goes against Nature

As GMOawareness.org says, the ethics are bad: “It's highly irresponsible and short-sighted to put genes from an animal, bacteria, or virus into a plant, or vice versa. Putting genes from one species into another violates the laws of nature, with unpredictable and potentially disastrous results.”

7. What Will the Future Hold?

GMOs affect the future of all life on earth.  MOawareness.org says it very well: “The biotech industry's vision of the future is deeply disturbing and saddening. On the other hand, farming systems such as agroecology, organic farming, and permaculture provide us with sane visions of the future that work with nature, produce the healthiest food, and care for the environment.”

As organic gardeners, we need to be informed and aware of what we’re planting in our gardens. Organic and open-pollinated heirloom varieties are safe and GMO-free, and there are many ethical seed companies that don’t sell GM seeds. 

For more information on the Safe Seeds Pledge click here: High Mowing Organic Seeds

For a list of seed companies that have taken the Safe Seeds Pledge, go to this link: The Safe Seeds Pledge is your assurance that you’re buying GMO-free seeds for your garden!

Links with further information:

 responsibletechnology.org,

seedsofdeception.com, 

organicconsumers.org/gelink.cfm

Article Resources: responsibletechnology.org, GMOawareness.org, and Peel The Orange.com.